Matrix exposure metering. What is exposure metering and what are they, when to use which? So which mode should you use?

Educational program: exposure metering in digital cameras

What is exposure? This is the determination of a precisely dosed amount of light that should fall on the photosensitive material (film or matrix) at the moment the frame is taken, that is, at the moment when the camera shutter is open. If not enough light reaches the sensor, the picture will turn out dark and underlit. It will be very difficult to “extract” it in a graphics editor - the colors will be distorted, color noise and grain will appear. If too much light comes in, the photo will be overexposed. Such a “bleached” frame cannot be saved by anything, since the details are hopelessly lost.

If caught on camera optimal quantity light, then the picture will turn out well-designed, all the details will be preserved in both light and dark areas. If the dynamic range of the camera is small, and the light sensitivity is set to very high, then details may be lost in deep shadows, although the main object will turn out to be quite well detailed. Therefore, because the sensor does not have a very wide dynamic range compared to film, it is very important to set the exposure correctly, otherwise there is a greater chance of losing detail in the light and dark areas of the image. Different cameras react differently to lighting in different conditions.

Since the days of film photography, there has been a special device that measures illumination - this is an exposure meter. It measures the light that falls on the subject. There is also a spotmeter, which is used to measure the amount of light that is reflected by the objects being photographed.

The amount of light falling on the matrix is ​​determined by the brightness of the scene being photographed and the lens aperture. By adjusting the aperture you can change the amount of light that enters the sensor. The aperture value is indicated by f-stop numbers. Exposure time is determined by shutter speed. The light sensitivity of the matrix also affects the exposure time - the higher the light sensitivity, the shorter the shutter speed, for example. The automation built into the camera necessarily takes this into account. The set values ​​- aperture, shutter speed and light sensitivity - are called exposure parameters. Proper setting of the exposure pair, shutter speed and aperture will ensure correct exposure at the set light sensitivity.

Previously, in film photography, exposure was determined in two ways: using an exposure meter, the illumination of the object was determined, that is, the intensity luminous flux, falling on an object; In addition, the intensity of the reflected light was measured. Today, when exposure metering devices built into digital cameras have appeared, only the second method is used.

For novice amateur photographers who are picking up a digital camera for the first time, almost every model has a fully automatic mode. You absolutely do not need to think about such “little things” as shutter speed, aperture, photosensitivity, all this is calculated for you by the “smart” camera electronics. You only focus on composition. Is this good or bad? This is good when in manual modes you shoot worse than your camera’s automation can handle. But this is bad when it is still possible to manually achieve a better result than the average result in automatic mode. Why is this so? Let's try to figure it all out.

In digital cameras you can set different types exposure metering - everything is determined depending on the scene being photographed.

Matrix metering, Pattern Evaluative, E

It is also called multi-zone, multi-zone, multi-segment, evaluative. IN automatic mode The camera sets the standard – matrix metering, which is used more often than others. This is the most intelligent metering; exposure is measured by the camera in several zones of the matrix. Segment zones are distributed over the frame area, each camera has a different way, and the priority of the zones is also different. The camera analyzes the data of each zone, the ratio of brightness of individual zones, and compares the information with its own database of standard, frequently occurring scenes. Matrix metering is the most universal, but it has its limitations, since the lighting is not always the same and uniform across the entire field of the frame, and objects can be different. Matrix metering is convenient when the illumination of the entire scene field is approximately the same. But it is not always predictable, although most of the time you will get the correct exposure. It is recommended for beginners who have not yet learned how to use manual settings.

Matrix metering will not work well in the following cases:

• In shutter priority or aperture priority mode (exposure compensation will help to some extent),
• Backlighting, when the light source (sun, lamp, spotlight, etc.) is located opposite the lens or to the side,
• If you need to focus on the main thing, highlight the object from the background,
• When you want to make a photo lighter or darker, changing the overall tone of the photo,
• Artistic photography

Matrix metering makes the exposure of the entire frame average. Highlights become overexposed and shadows become dark.

There is also three-dimensional (3D) spatial segment-matrix metering. In this variation of matrix metering, exposure is determined at different locations in the frame separately, independently of each other. Brightness, contrast and distance to various objects in the scene are taken into account. Three-dimensional exposure metering is used mainly in DSLRs.

If you want to learn how to shoot not only in the automatic “point and click” mode, taking a mediocre “memory photo”, but want to get more expressive and interesting photos, then it makes sense to get acquainted with other methods of exposure metering.

Integral metering (Average metering, A)

Averaging metering. With this simple method, the illumination of the scene is averaged over the entire field of the frame. All frame zones have the same priority. Integral metering tends to predominate in a mid-gray tone. The advantage of integral metering is that, regardless of the intensity of the reflected light, the average value is used. It is not suitable for shooting contrasting scenes, as well as black and white surfaces, clothing, animals - there is a risk of incorrect exposure. It is also not suitable in low light conditions: light objects will not be light enough, and dark objects will be too dark. When shooting in the evening, you risk getting too bright a photo. In this case, the exposure should be reduced by 1 or 2 steps. When shooting white objects, the opposite effect will help - a larger exposure of 1 or 2 stops.

There are also spot and center-weighted exposure metering. They will come to your aid when the lighting conditions are unusual, when you shoot complex scenes, when you want to get an original result.

Spot metering (S)

It is also sometimes called partial. This metering method provides the most accurate result; the exposure of the subject being photographed is optimal. In cells with manual settings Spot metering is required. In this case, the camera's exposure meter measures the brightness in a small area of ​​the frame - usually 1-3% of the area (or up to 9%), depending on the camera model.

The measurement takes place at the center point of the frame. If your subject is not in the center of the frame, you can recompose the frame by centering the subject and pressing the shutter button halfway (without releasing it) or locking the exposure. In more advanced cameras, such as professional DSLRs, the metering points, combined with the autofocus points, can move around the frame. They are combined with autofocus points. The number of such points depends on the specific camera model; there can be five or more.

“Advanced” cameras have a built-in exposure locking (saving) function - AE. The “AE-L” button means “Automatic Exposure Lock”, locking exposure metering. If you need to recompose the frame, just press the lock button and the camera will remember the settings.

With spot metering, the background may turn out to be overexposed or underexposed, but the main subject, the one you measured against, will turn out well, as detailed as possible with the maximum amount of detail. Spot metering can be used when shooting contrasting scenes in backlit situations. That is, in cases where it is important to correctly determine the exposure for the main part of the frame.

Center-weighted metering (CW)

It is also called averaged. With this method, the system evaluates the overall brightness of the scene, but focuses on the central part of the frame, which covers about 9 percent or slightly more. This exposure metering method is advisable to use in the following cases:

• Portrait photography,
• When the subject occupies most of the center of the frame,
• When the subject is against a contrasting background

Multi Spot metering (MS)

Exposure is measured at several points in the frame, and the camera averages the resulting values. Multi-point metering is mainly used in professional SLR cameras.

Partial metering

Metering resembles spot metering, but the “spot” is increased to a “spot” with an area of ​​up to 6-10 percent of the frame surface. This method is often used in amateur SLR cameras.

Exposure compensation

Different surfaces reflect light received from the same source differently. That is, each object has its own reflection coefficient. Average coefficient reflections – 18-20%.

When shooting a medium-gray object, matrix metering will correctly determine the exposure - the aperture and shutter speed. An object with 20 percent reflectivity will have a reflectance of 0.2, black velvet fabric will have a reflectance of 0.02, and snow will have a reflectance of 0.8. In order for these objects in the picture to turn out not gray, you need to introduce an exposure correction - that is, make exposure compensation. A summer landscape reflects on average about 18% of the light, 8-10% if there are greenery and foliage in the frame. If there is sand, the dry surface is 30-40%. Human skin has a wide range of reflectivity, with the specific reflectance varying depending on race and tan. For light skin it is 0.35, for very dark skin it is 0.035-0.06.

In modern digital cameras There is a set of story programs, and often quite rich. So, for example, if you set the mode to “Snow/Beach”, the camera will adjust the settings so that the snow appears in the photo as a true white. In this case, there is no need to enter exposure compensation.

The "+/-" button on the camera body controls exposure compensation. You can make adjustments by rotating the dial or pressing the appropriate buttons. Also have more simple models cameras, this function can be accessed through the menu.

Exposure compensation is indicated by EV values. EV (short for “exposure value” - translated from English, value, exposure value.) is a conditional value that includes all possible combinations of shutter speed and aperture number, which, under constant shooting conditions, provide the same exposure. A change in EV value by one (one stop in either direction) corresponds to a doubling of the exposure. If you enter +1 EV, the exposure will double. Exposure compensation increments are typically 1/3 EV stop. For example, to get rid of grayness in bad weather, adjust the exposure compensation by +1/3 or +2/3.

Bracketing

Bracketing, or exposure bracketing (exposure bracketing) is a series of frames when the exposure parameters change in each frame: the first frame is underexposed, the second is correctly exposed, and the third is overexposed. Cameras have the ability to set the bracketing step - the difference in exposure parameters from the norm. Bracketing is used when the illumination in the frame is difficult to determine and a “test” is required.

bar chart

The brightness histogram will help you correctly assess the exposure. This graph displays the number of pixels and brightness levels. The horizontal axis corresponds to the brightness value: from black to white. The more pixels with the same value, the higher the level – amplitude.

If the histogram is shifted to the left, it means that the picture turned out with a predominance of dark tones; if it is shifted to the right, it means that the picture has a predominance of light tones. It is desirable that the histogram is not “ragged”, that is, does not have sharp changes or “spikes”. It’s good when it goes smoothly, forming a uniform curve, similar to a “hill” with smooth slopes.

In a number digital cameras The histogram is part of the service (auxiliary) information recorded along with the image. This allows you to improve its balance during a possible re-shoot of the frame or helps you choose the method of light-tonal correction of the image when editing it on a computer. In more advanced cameras, the histogram is superimposed on top of the image of the selected frame on the display. This allows you to preliminarily assess the quality of the future photo and immediately either change the lighting conditions or composition, or introduce exposure metric corrections.

In order for the camera to determine the necessary settings for shooting, it first needs to know how bright or dim the lighting is in the space that needs to be photographed. The exposure meter in the camera is responsible for this determination. What is needed for a photo is one of the key tasks of any camera automation.

All Nikon central control systems use reflected light metering, the so-called TTL mode. TTL means 'Through The Lens‘ – through the lens (lens), that is, the metering is calculated using light that was reflected from the object being photographed, passed through the lens (lens) and hit the exposure meter sensor.

• The exposure metering point is the same as the focusing point when using single-point focusing. By moving the focus point in this mode, you can see how the exposure meter readings change.
• The exposure metering point for spot metering is always in the center area of ​​the frame when using (rectangle icon) or any other method other than single-point focusing.
• The function does not work in spot mode TTL+BL with Nikon SB flashes.

Exposure metering is center weighted.

IN Live mode View exposure metering works exactly the same, only information about brightness and color distribution is taken directly from the camera sensor.

Exposure changes when different metering methods are selected. Spot metering made the watch correctly exposed, but the overall exposure fell into '+'

Personal experience:

Roughly speaking, accurate exposure metering algorithms different in each cell, since each camera uses its own exposure metering module and its own matrix, which has different meanings DD and ISO and series additional settings type . The operation of the exposure meter of each individual camera requires get used to it. If the on-camera exposure meter for reflected light is not satisfactory, you can always buy an exposure meter for illumination. Personally, I just know roughly how the camera behaves in different conditions.

I take almost all pictures in matrix mode with , but when the conditions are very difficult, I use spot metering, and when the automatic operation does not suit me, I simply use the manual camera control mode, in which I set the exposure parameters by eye or using a histogram. It is very useful to use in automatic modes. Even if I didn’t keep track of the desired exposure on the camera display, I can always correct the levels when processing the RAW file. Particular difficulties with exposure metering arise when shooting with multiple flashes in i-TTL mode, in which case I still use matrix exposure metering, but manual control flashes using .

In general, the same can be said not only about Nikon, but also about other systems.

Automatic exposure metering works quite well

conclusions

Understanding exposure metering is the foundation to properly exposed photography. If learn to drive With different metering modes, you can easily shoot in any situation with difficult lighting. I advise you to conduct your own experiments on your central control centers.

Help the project. Thank you for your attention. Arkady Shapoval.

Often, in conversations with fellow photography enthusiasts, I come across bewilderment in response to the question “What exposure metering mode do you use?” People actively use creative modes, changing the aperture, shutter speed and adjusting the white balance to the shooting conditions, but the “metering modes button” is ignored. Let's try to figure out what it serves and how to use it, very briefly and as a first approximation.

Sooner or later, every amateur photographer (not to be confused with a “camera owner”) “understands” various types exposure metering, but I would advise doing this “as early as possible”: this will help you learn to look at the frame you are shooting not only from the point of view of composition, plot and artistry, but also from the “technical” side. Just as a painter evaluates the dark and light areas of a picture and, depending on this, works with color, so a photographer must evaluate the lighting, its features and work based on this assessment.

Exposure in photography is “driven” by the amount of light falling on the camera’s matrix/film. This amount is regulated by the ratio of aperture and shutter speed: imagine a darkly curtained window. To prevent guests from seeing the dust accumulated in the corners, you only slightly open the curtains (aperture) and quickly close them (shutter speed), or (after tidying up before the visit) open the curtains wide and close them only after the guests have been able to appreciate all your photographs, hung in frames on the walls (of course, the famous example with a water tap is better, but I wanted to come up with something new).

Standing by the window and putting your hands on the curtains, you need to solve two problems at the same time: the first - general - how to make sure that guests see at least something, and the second - private - how to achieve the result you need.

The first task is choosing the right exposure: if you suddenly open the curtains on a sunny day, it is unlikely that your guests will be able to appreciate your work: they will simply close their eyes and go blind for a while. And if it’s evening outside, they won’t be able to see anything in the twilight. It’s the same in photography: too much light will “brighten” the photo, too little will leave it dark.

The second task - creative - depends on what you are going to show off to your guests, but we will talk about it separately.

Exposure metering: this is the solution to the first problem - estimating the amount of light and selecting the “correct” exposure pair, which allows you to get a photograph without monochromatic “knocked out” white spots (overexposure) and also monochromatic dark areas of the image, guessed only by the contour - to get a “correctly exposed” photograph - with "correct" brightness.

Modern cameras have built-in exposure meters - exposure metering sensors (silicon photocells) that determine the amount of light in the selected scene. When you aim at a subject, light through the lens (I'm talking about “DSLR” cameras) hits the sensor, then the received data goes to the camera processor. TTL (Through The Lens) metering is one of the main advantages SLR cameras, because it allows you to evaluate and measure exactly the amount of light that hits the media (matrix or film). Based on the information received, the processor “selects” the correct (as it seems to it) exposure pair if you are shooting in automatic mode, or adds a second one to the parameter selected by the photographer (aperture to shutter speed, shutter speed to aperture).

Sensors of different cameras differ, among other things, in the number of zones that measure illumination. For example, the Canon 5D sensor has 35 zones, and the Canon 7D has 63 zones. The number of zones directly affects the correct operation of exposure metering, therefore, the more zones, the better.

Canon cameras offer four exposure metering options:

• Estimated measurement
• Partial metering
• Spot metering
• Center-weighted average froze

Let's see what the User Guide tells us:

• Evaluative is the camera's standard metering mode, suitable for most subjects, even when shooting backlit subjects. After determining the position of the main subject, its brightness, background, front and back lighting, etc., the camera sets the required exposure. (Used when shooting on automatic)
• Partial – convenient when the background is much brighter than the subject being photographed due to backlighting, etc. Partial metering covers about 8% of the area in the center of the viewfinder.
• Spot metering – used to meter within a specific area of ​​an object or composition. When metering exposure, the values ​​are weighted relative to the center of the viewfinder area, which occupies approximately 3.5% of its area.
• Center-weighted average - When metering exposure, the values ​​are weighted relative to the center of the viewfinder and then averaged for the entire composition.

In general, is everything clear? It seems that the authors of instruction manuals do best in the sections about changing batteries. And this is not a “crooked” translation - everything is the same in English.

Let's start with Evaluative Metering.

As far as I know, this is the first time evaluative metering has been used on a camera. Canon EOS 650. Around the same time - 1987 - a similar metering method appeared at Nikon - Nikon Matrix Metering. Evaluative, aka matrix, aka segment, aka cellular metering is the most commonly used. The exposure metering sensor is divided into a n number of zones and the illumination is measured separately for each of them.

Essentially, this metering system is based on knowledge of the "correct" exposure of many photographs. The sensor measures the illumination of each zone and transmits the data to the camera processor, which, according to a certain algorithm, converts it into a certain mathematical expression. During the metering process, the illumination of the main subject is taken into account: for this, readings are taken from the area where the active focus point is located (therefore, in this mode, exposure metering is “linked” to focusing). The received data is compared by the processor with a database of correctly exposed photographs (the database contains tens of thousands of examples (for example, Nikon claimed 90,000). Having found the closest value, the camera sets the exposure.

Evaluative metering is suitable for most standard situations where exactly the “correct” exposure is required: an evenly exposed photo. The most common example is taking landscape photos. I have it in the default camera settings.

The “correctness” and universality of the evaluative measurement is both its strength and weak side. The main “weakness” is one: the desire of the camera’s automation to “average” the scene and expose the entire image as “correctly” as possible. This often leads to an incorrectly exposed main subject: although the automation tries to “work out” the area corresponding to the active autofocus point as correctly as possible (it is assumed that the photographer is focusing on the most important object for him), it nevertheless introduces corrections for the rest part of the scene. The algorithms of modern cameras try to get around this limitation, but close attention to correct exposure primarily in the area of ​​the active autofocus point is a double-edged sword. And - especially in landscape photography - often results in a correctly exposed sky and a dark silhouette of everything else (if the active AF point is pointed "to the sky") or a "punched out" white sky if the photographer is focusing on the foreground of the landscape.

Accordingly, you can use the “default” evaluative metering, but check the result obtained using the histogram and the camera screen. You need to be especially careful if you are shooting a portrait or an object that occupies a small part of the frame, but is the semantic center of the photograph.

I would continue with a story about Spot metering, as the opposite of matrix (evaluative). This is the second most frequently used method after the matrix method. The main difference between spot metering and matrix metering can be seen from its very name: the camera reads readings from only one zone of the metering sensor and, based on these readings, offers an exposure.

If in matrix metering one of the indicators of the quality of a possible assessment is the number of metering zones, then in point metering it is the area of ​​the measured part of the frame. And here, the smaller this area, the better: after all, the main task that a photographer using spot metering sets for himself is to correctly expose only a certain part of the image.

The scope of application of spot metering is taking photographs with the main subject being correctly exposed: whether it is a portrait, an architectural monument, or an exhibition sample.

I use the spot metering method when shooting portraits (when the metering method does not give the required result), when shooting in the studio, or when photographing under bright sun, when a priori the dynamic range of the camera matrix is ​​not enough to correctly expose the entire scene, and attempts at evaluative metering to “bring the picture to a common denominator” only get in the way.

Partial metering- a type of spot camera, and in entry-level cameras - its replacement. The camera exposes a certain area of ​​the entire frame (8 - 10%) and sets the exposure pair based on the results obtained. The rest of the scene is not taken into account. Accordingly, it should be used as a replacement for spot metering in cases where the “accuracy” of spot metering is rather a hindrance: for example, when shooting a two-color object that is larger in size than the spot metering area.

Meaning centrally weighted average, or rather, its advantages over the three listed above, I still did not understand. Do not use.

To summarize: we can consider that there are two types of exposure metering: evaluative (matrix) and spot. One is used when it is necessary to convey the entire scene as correctly as possible, the second - only part of the scene. Depending on this, you should choose between them. I would recommend the following algorithm: use the estimated one by default, switching to point/partial in cases where you are not satisfied with the result.

And most importantly: do not forget that if the contrast of the scene exceeds the capabilities of the matrix, no exposure metering method will help to convey it. Use bracketing and do HDR.

Light meter- device for instrumental measurement photographic exposure and determining the correct exposure parameters.

Exposure Metering Mode- in modern photographic and film equipment determines the method of evaluation brightness different parts of the frame during instrumental measurement exposition , mainly using the light meter built into the camera.

Various metering modes have appeared with the development TTL exposure meters , since they are practically impossible to implement with their other types. Moreover, modern digital and film cameras have the ability to measure in various modes of both constant light and light photo flashes , measured, as a rule, by the same sensors as continuous lighting.

Average metering

With average measurement The brightness of all parts of the frame is taken into account equally. Both external exposure meters and most of built-in

The first TTL exposure meters only had a measurement mode that was suitable for low-contrast scenes, but produced errors if there was a large difference in the brightness of the subject and the background.

Center-weighted exposure metering In this mode The sensitivity of the sensor is distributed unevenly across the entire field of the frame, reaching its maximum value in the center, where the main subject is usually located. central part small format frame , limited by a circle with a diameter of 12 millimeters, occupied 60% overall result

measurements. The remaining portions of the frame were 40%, allowing for more accurate measurements of most scenes. Unlike the spot mode, which reacts sensitively to the slightest changes in the position of the metering area and requires constant attention, center-weighted metering is more average and suitable for reportage shooting.

Spot metering

Spot exposure metering measures the brightness of a small area of ​​the frame, ranging in size from 1 to 5% of its total area. Usually the “point” is located in the center of the frame, although many cameras allow you to set it in other places. Spot metering allows you to correctly determine the exposure of contrasting scenes without getting close to the subject.

For example, when shooting a brightly lit subject against a very dark background (for example, an actor on a dark stage), using spot metering on an important part of the scene allows you to expose the subject correctly, ignoring the overall dark tonality. And although the background will be underexposed, the desired subject will receive the correct exposure.

Partial mode is a type of spot, covering a wider “spot” of 10-15% of the total frame area. Unlike center-weighted, which takes into account the brightness of the entire frame in different proportions, partial measures only a limited area, like spot.

Matrix (evaluative, multi-zone) exposure metering

Evaluative or matrix metering is based on dividing the frame into several segments, the exposure of which is measured independently, and the resulting results are processed by the camera's microprocessor, determining the optimal exposure based on statistical data.

Many amateur photographers, not wanting to waste time and energy on mastering tedious and multi-letter topics in photography, remain ignorant when it comes to exposure measurement modes. And beginners and camera users are often completely unaware of the existence of this topic. No wonder, because soap dishes do not allow the user to control this process, carrying it out automatically. But once you start using semi-or, it’s important to understand this. Therefore, now we will look at how the technology does this and what exposure metering modes the camera has.

Who is this camera metering?

Exposure is one of the fundamental criteria for the quality of the resulting image. Essentially this is the amount of light that will be captured by the camera in your photo. There are formations of this amount of light – , and . But these are factors that influence the control of light transmittance on. But before it falls into the “paws” of these three guys, the light is formed on the subjects themselves and is measured by the camera’s built-in exposure meter. The process of measuring the amount of light from a certain area of ​​the frame with a built-in exposure meter is called exposure metering.

Built-in exposure meter

In the old days, when shooting was done manually, every photographer knew what an exposure meter was and knew how to work with it. In modern times, this miracle device is built into any photo and video equipment and can work without our intervention. Due to this, the camera can operate in fully automatic mode. The main and only task of the exposure meter is to measure the amount of light at specific points in the frame. This task is also performed by the camera’s built-in exposure meter, with only one “but” - it measures not the reference incident light, but the light reflected from the object. Therefore, he is easily misled.

Different objects have different degrees of light reflectivity, and the built-in exposure meter perceives all objects the same (neutral gray), since it is just a technique and cannot know what exactly the lens is currently pointing at. One of these popular “deceivers” is snow. Which, due to high quality reflectivity of light, makes the technician think that it is much brighter than it actually is. As a result, it remains . Therefore, to the aid of the exposure meter, there are adjustments that we use to help the camera decide from which area it should take a “sample” to build the exposure.

Exposure Metering Modes

On this moment There are several different camera exposure metering modes:

• average exposure metering (outdated);
• matrix (evaluative, multi-zone) exposure metering;
• center-weighted (center-weighted average) exposure metering;
• partial exposure metering;
• spot metering;
• Metering in bright areas.

Average metering

Also sometimes called "integral". I took into account the brightness of the entire frame equally. It was suitable for low-contrast scenes. Therefore, it gave frequent errors in exposure when shooting high-contrast shots, for example, photos against a bright sky. It was later refined by camera manufacturers. Thus, some brands adjusted the system to allow exposure metering with priority to the lower part of the frame and was called “automatic contrast compensation.” Now considered obsolete and no longer used in modern cameras.

Matrix Metering

The camera measures light from all sensors throughout the frame. What makes this exposure mode the easiest to use, convenient for beginners and those who don’t want to bother with zonal measurements. Modern cameras It is possible to take quite decent shots in this exposure calculation mode. Except in cases with high-contrast scenes. If there is an object in the frame, for example, with room lighting and light coming from a window, then the camera, trying to balance the lighting, can produce unpredictable results. In such scenes, she needs help and use more precise exposure metering modes.

Center-weighted Average Metering

Also called “center-weighted average,” for example, from the Canon brand. Takes data from a large zone in the center of the frame, and the central part of the zone dominates during processing. This option for measuring exposure to light data migrated from film cameras and is now not the most popular. There are several reasons for this. It is as easy to use as the matrix one. But at the same time, it is something between the above - matrix exposure calculation and spot calculation, which will be discussed below. As a result, the fairly intelligent matrix mode is simpler and more convenient to use for beginners, and the point mode, although more complex, is of better quality, more accurately performs its task and is preferable for professionals.

Partial Metering Mode

The mode is similar in its methodology to center-weighted, but has less coverage, about 15% of the center point of the frame. Convenient when the subject and the background of the frame strongly contrast with each other - when the background is much darker or, conversely, much lighter than the object in the center. That is, this is again a transitional mode that fills the void between the matrix and spot exposure metering modes. Also not very popular.

Spot metering

One of the most complex and at the same time favorite and precise modes among professionals, especially among lovers of portrait or product photography. It is complicated in that you yourself indicate to the camera which specific point in the frame it should start from when constructing the exposure. In this case, you need to be careful and think about the choice of point. Set it too bright and you'll end up with an underexposed image. Specify a very dark one - you will get overexposed. Therefore, this mode is considered professional, since you need to understand the principle of exposure formation and, with this understanding, indicate a point to the camera.

But it opens up enormous potential for creative ideas. You have the ability to create high-contrast images in a dark room and, for example, with a face partially immersed in shadow. Or trees in the forest, pierced through the foliage sun rays. Or a model against the backdrop of a window with backlight shining into the camera lens. And taking into account the possibility of blocking the exposure metering (discussed below), it is possible to further expand the boundaries of imagination and take measurements from the backlight shining from the window, continue composing the frame and focusing on the model, create a black silhouette against the background of a light window.

In general, the possibilities are enormous, just come up with it and implement it. But there are moments in which the point mode will not work. For example, a general portrait, a flock of animals. All options where the shooting objects are located at a distance from the selected point and can be illuminated differently. In such cases, modes with a larger sensor coverage area are better suited - matrix, center-weighted, partial.

Metering based on bright areas of the frame

One of the newest exposure metering modes. It began its existence in cameras from the Nikon brand (D750, D810). Designed for photographers working with the RAW format. As you know, overexposed areas of the frame are a headache for the photographer and sadness for the viewer’s eyes. After all, highlights, unlike shadows, are impossible or almost impossible to revive by returning detail to them. Strong overexposures often remain a white, faded spot in the photograph. The bright-area metering mode is designed to eliminate the possibility of this phenomenon. Focusing on the lightest areas of the frame, he builds the composition so that, in extreme cases, the frame is underexposed (dark). In this case, as mentioned earlier, the calculation is that the image will be saved in raw RAW format and will be further processed in a photo editor. Since the raw RAW format, unlike compressed JPEG, allows you to manipulate light and shadows much more flexibly. Due to this, the underexposed (dark) areas of the image will be stretched out.

Metering Lock Mode

It’s worth highlighting the camera’s capabilities for temporarily blocking exposure metering. Almost all modern semi- and professional equipment has this function. It is achieved in two ways with some differences.

1. The first option, in pre-focus mode (half-pressed shutter button). At this moment, exposure and focus are measured and await your final decision. Which you can use and recompose the shot (change the subject) and finish with a full press of the shutter. In this case, previously measured and recorded data is applied to the newly selected object;
2. The second option is a separate button on the body (body) AE-L (Automatic Exposure Lock), which performs the same function, but without touching the focus and without half-pressing the shutter release. That is, by pointing at an object with the desired lighting and pressing this button, you have some time to recompose the frame and focus on the new subject. Note that depending on the manufacturer, the (AF-L) (Automatic Focus Lock) function may also be linked to this function. Which completely repeats the pre-focus mode. But in this case, the operating modes of this button can be configured in the camera settings.

What's the point? Often used for spot and partial measurements. When you take a light sample not from the entire frame, but from a specific point in the frame or part of it. This gives you unlimited possibilities in creative approach with light.

As you can understand, each option for measuring exposure with a camera has its own irrefutable advantages and disadvantages. If you don’t want to suffer with zonal exposure modes, which require deeper knowledge and understanding of the issue, then your option is matrix. But remember, in scenes with backlight (bright light shining into the camera lens) and in highly contrasting scenes, the results will most often not be satisfactory. Many people like to use spot metering because the results are fairly predictable and within your control. But then you will need to use either the pre-focus function or the exposure metering lock button. Or constantly, from frame to frame, run the point of selection of the exposure meter sensor in the frame. Owners of cameras with a new bright-area exposure metering mode and who do not disdain further processing of the RAW file in a photo editor have priority, oddly enough :), “bright-area metering mode.” That is, to each his own – a matter of taste. Whoever likes what type of measurement takes it into service.