Usually, macro photography means photographing objects at close range, but it would be more correct to interpret “macro” as a genre of photography where objects are photographed with magnification several times.
Between professional photographer and the artist have a lot in common: for example, both of them try to convey to us stories and details that are hidden from the average viewer during a quick glance. the main task photographer - to find and reflect in the photograph interesting images and subjects taken in the environment.
There are many techniques to do this. Can be removed staged photographs, select good angles, use light filters or apply the “magic” of post-processing in a graphics editor. And there is another way to discover the “invisible” world - macro photography.
This type of photography has a number of interesting features. Photos taken in macro mode at close range most often look very impressive, because although the small details of the surrounding world are not obvious, they are worthy of admiration: the reflection of an entire house in a drop on window glass, veins on an autumn maple leaf or a snowflake of the first snowfall.
Macro photographs provide an opportunity to take a completely new look at the world: if landscapes create a mood, and portraits reveal character, then “macro” arouses interest in little things and helps to understand things in detail.
All these styles are available to amateur photographers and do not require special expensive equipment. However, to get a good result you may need special lens, flash and tripod. Next, you will learn what equipment you will need for macro photography, how to process the resulting images on a computer and correct some shortcomings in the photographs.
Getting ready for shooting
There are certain factors that greatly affect the quality of a photo. This applies to both equipment and shooting conditions.
Do I need a special lens?
From a technical point of view, “macro” refers to images with a scale of 1/1 or 2/1, which special lenses can allow. The best option considered to be fixed optics focal length and high aperture (the lower the F value, the better). Popular ones include 35 mm primes for close-up shots and 180 mm for distant ones, so as not to scare off a rare butterfly or bird.
However, if you don’t want to spend money on an expensive lens just yet, then 1/2 scale is sufficient for typical scenes. When you subsequently process the image in a photo editor, you can crop it to a scale of 1/1, thereby achieving the desired effect. It is convenient to perform such shooting with lenses supplied with SLR cameras - for example, 17–55 mm. Both DSLR cameras and point-and-shoot cameras can enable a special “Macro” mode.
Sigma AF 50mm F2.8 EX MACRO and Sigma AF 70-300mm F4-5.6 DG MACRO lenses are designed specifically for macro photography
How to eliminate frame “shaking”
To avoid ruining a rare photo with lens shake, we recommend using a tripod or flexible tripod. It would also be useful to be able to observe through a folding screen rather than a video finder. A self-timer with delay will also help eliminate shaking. Remember that the subject may move due to gusts of wind, so you should take care of fixing it in advance.
To avoid camera shake, use a tripod or monopod Lighting and accessories
In some cases it is desirable to use additional lighting. The built-in flash usually does not illuminate a close subject - it is obscured by the lens. For illumination, we recommend using an LED flashlight. In addition, special ring flashes can be found on sale. Bright daylight often causes flare and glare. A lens hood will help avoid this. When choosing, pay attention to the material from which it is made - remember that it is better to use a flexible rubber lens hood, as it will not damage the lens if accidentally pressed or hit.
Ring flash will create the necessary lighting for nearby objects Shooting with a point-and-shoot camera and smartphone
To be able to shoot in macro mode, you don’t have to buy a DSLR - most compact cameras have this feature today. digital cameras and is indicated by a flower pictogram. Even if you have a regular smartphone, you can still take macro photos, but you will need to purchase special lens attachments to do this. They can be mounted on top of the main lens of the lens, and in a point-and-shoot camera they can be placed in the place intended for the filter. It should be borne in mind that “additional” lenses reduce the potential quality of the image - for example, aberrations are added, aperture deteriorates, etc.
A special attachment for the smartphone camera lens makes it possible to create high-quality macro photographs
Tricks of photo correction
In the new Adobe versions Photoshop has built-in special tools that can significantly improve your macro photography.
Strengthening the macro effect
IN latest version Photoshop CC has added a very useful tool - Image Stabilization. This new filter makes it possible to correct the accidental blur that macro photographers so often experience. Please note that this function copes only with minimal blurriness of the image and only in cases where the lens shift at the time of shooting occurs linearly. If there is severe jitter, it will be impossible to restore the image using this option.
Photoshop's Image Stabilization tool will make blurry areas of your photo clearer However, for the most “hopeless” images, you can use proven methods for restoring clarity: for example, you can convert the image to the LAB Color color model, and then apply one of the standard contour sharpening filters to the channel containing information about the brightness of the image. You can also duplicate the layer and apply the High Pass or Emboss filter to the top layer in the Overlay blending mode.
If the object is not sharp enough, the “Unsharp Mask” function will correct the camera error. Another reason we recommend choosing Photoshop as your primary photo editing tool is the ability to quickly remove dust and scratches using the Stamp and Spot Healing Brush tools.
The smallest defects, such as dust and scratches, are masked with the Stamp and Spot Healing Brush tools. If you're a product photographer, you most likely need to show off your subjects in pristine condition. However, when you zoom in on details in macro mode, invisible defects and dirt appear - glass or mirror surfaces turn out to be scratched and not at all as clean as they seemed.
In this case, you will definitely fully appreciate the convenience of the Photoshop tools listed above. With just one click, you can eliminate these and other defects, giving the objects in your photo a perfect look.
Convenient extensions
The special add-on for Photoshop Nik Collection from Google includes a set of plug-ins, including tools for color correction, a tool for working with HDR images, to combat digital noise, a sharpening application Sharpener Pro and other various and useful functions.
HDR Efex Pro app from Nic Collections allows you to create realistic artistic effects A distinctive feature of these plugins is the ability to selectively apply each filter and a very clear library of presets. In addition, some tools - for example, HDR Efex Pro - can be used as a separate utility.
We correct shortcomings
To sharpen some areas and crop without losing quality, it is better to use free utilities.
Expanding the depth of field
A distinctive feature of most photographs taken in the “macro” genre is the presence of a shallow depth of field in the photo, due to which only a small part of it comes into focus. most of space captured by the lens. But sometimes it turns out that the desired part of the subject is not in focus. Serial shooting and special software will help you “focus” on sharpness.
Sometimes when shooting there is a need to “move” focus to another part of the frame. In such cases, a series of photographs will help out. Lens effect
Many people engage in macro photography only as a pleasant hobby, but there are many photographers for whom this genre makes money. To get the “magnifying glass” effect, just take several pictures with different sharpness points and use special program, which is called Helicon Focus. This utility will process a group of photos and create a multi-layer collage, selecting from each image those areas where the image contains the clearest details.
By loading a batch of images into the Helocon Focus app, you can get an image with sharpness in the desired area Helicon Focus also has many other useful functions built into it: for example, using this application you can automate the combination of exposure and focus bracketing, calibrate the autofocus system, and also take macro photography remotely. Among other things, the utility can generate interactive web animation: it allows you to use a special navigation menu to change the focus on an object, moving from one image from the processed group to another.
Helocon Focus allows you to record a video with changing focus areas and set the playback speed Increase resolution
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About Me:
Born in Yaransk, Kirov region. I have been interested in photography since 1975, I have been photographing almost my entire life. IN Lately I only shoot macro. Member of the Union of Photographers of Russia. Member of the Macro Club since 2008. Organized three exhibitions in local history museums. Participant thematic exhibitions in the Darwin Museum, Moscow. Participant of the exhibition “We are alive”, Moscow 2012. Prize-winner of the photo competition “WILDLIFE OF RUSSIA-2012” by the magazine “National Geographic Russia”. Laureate of the Golden Turtle 8 competition. Finalist of the competition "Primordial Russia" 2013. Finalist of the competition "Life in the Rhythm of Sports" at the Darwin Museum. Participant in the Macroclub photo exhibition for children at the Golden Turtle festival in the Central House of Artists. Participant of the exhibition “WILDLIFE OF RUSSIA-2014” of the magazine “National Geographic Russia”. Participant in the competition Primordial Russia 2014.
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The plot will tell you about the mating behavior of the Common firefly or the Ivanovo worm. The video was filmed in the Vsevolozhsk region Leningrad region. Author and presenter - Candidate of Biological Sciences Pavel Glazkov. Several of my photographs were used in the film.
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Often from beginning amateur photographers who have bought reflex camera with a standard (kit) lens, there is a desire to shoot small items in life-size 1:1 or with magnification up to 10:1 to show in the photograph not only clearly visible, but also small details and surface structure of the objects being photographed that are invisible to the naked eye. This genre in photography is called macro photography or macrohunting. But standard lenses don't shoot at that scale. How can you shoot with magnification using a standard lens? A few tips will help solve this problem.
First of all, you need to know that photographic lenses can only focus within a certain range of distances, which depends on the lens model. This range is indicated on the lens barrel or in the lens documentation. It usually ranges from 0.30 meters to infinity and depends on the brand and model of the lens. It is no longer possible to focus less than the minimum distance, but in our case it is necessary. How to achieve this and reduce the minimum focusing distance?
It turns out that they achieve this by changing the distance from the end plane of the lens mount to the focal plane of the lens (this is the plane of the matrix digital camera). This distance is also called the working distance or working distance. Increasing this segment reduces the minimum focusing distance, which allows you to bring the lens closer to the subject and shoot with a magnification of up to 10:1 and even greater.
This is achieved by installing between the lens and the camera body extension rings or sliding bellows. It should be taken into account that after installing them, the camera will not focus at infinity. Each of these devices has its own disadvantages and advantages. Let's briefly look at each of them.
1. Extension rings for macro photography.
In first place in terms of polarity and price-quality ratio are extension rings, which are available with a bayonet mount for cameras Sony, Canon, Nikon, Olympus 4/3 and others. They are produced in the form of a set of three rings with lengths of 12mm, 24mm and 36mm in two versions - without electrical contacts and with electrical contacts to enable autofocus. In their design, they do not have lenses and are installed between the lens and the camera body. This leads to an increase in the lens flange (the distance between the sensor plane and the lens) and allows the photographer to focus the lens at a closer distance and shoot a larger subject. When purchasing a set of rings, check with the seller to see if it will fit your camera.
Advantages of extension rings for macro photography:
The operation of the camera's automation is maintained;
Disadvantages of extension rings:
The shooting scale changes in steps;
To change the shooting scale, you need to remove the lens.
2. Sliding fur.
The bellows for macro photography are a corrugated, light-proof “accordion” located between the front and rear pillars. The stands contain adapters for mounting the camera and lens. The racks move smoothly along toothed guide racks. The design of the sliding bellows is distinguished by its great variety and price-quality ratio. You need to buy it carefully, after making sure that it is suitable for your camera model.
Advantages of fur for macro photography:
Smooth change in shooting scale;
You don't need to remove the lens to change the zoom;
The quality of the photo does not deteriorate.
Disadvantages of fur for macro photography:
In some models, the lens automation does not work;
The lens aperture decreases;
Large dimensions of the assembled structure;
Don't be confused by the fact that the camera's autofocus may not work. The point is that to achieve best quality When taking a photo, professional macro hunters focus the lens manually, turning off the camera’s automatic control. This is done by moving the camera back and forth, or as usual, by rotating the lens barrel if the subject is stationary.
There is another way to change the shooting scale - by using attachment lenses that are screwed onto the lens barrel. But they degrade the quality of the image, which is extremely undesirable for macro photography. Which of the listed devices you prefer is your choice.
In conclusion, I would like to wish you a successful macro hunt and great photos!
Related materials:
- 22/04/2014 21:39 - Macro world photographer John Tsang
- 17/04/2014 20:24 - Macroculture from photographer Agata Eggi
- 14/04/2014 20:46 - A selection of macro photographs by Dean Morley
- 27/02/2014 21:47 - Macro selection from photographer Shannon Chan
- 26/02/2014 21:14 - Lots of macro from Bellat Chitchi
New articles:
- 06/02/2012 13:13 - Macro photography in nature.
- 06/02/2012 12:36 - Macro photography in nature.
- 06/02/2012 12:25 -
February 15, 2012 Ekaterina
"" is a wonderful book about macro photography by Robert Thompson. The book provides a complete description of all aspects of macro photography - from the choice of photographic equipment to practical techniques.
The author of the book indicates that he specially selected examples for the book that any average photographer could repeat. In the book " Macro photography. Practical guide for photographers"a description is given of all the possibilities of macro photography that a photographer can use, discovering the wonderful world of microscopic things, nature and living beings.
Thompson describes the basic techniques that he uses when doing macro photography. He also differentiates these techniques by season, describing the peculiarities and challenges of shooting in different seasons. " Macro photography. A practical guide for photographers” gives a list of the main subjects that a photographer can get carried away with and that should be paid attention to. He also tells the photographer how to look for new subjects and scenes.
In addition, the book describes basic composition techniques for macro photography.
Robert Thompson
MACRO PHOTOGRAPHY
A PRACTICAL GUIDE FOR PHOTOGRAPHERS WITH LOTS OF COLOR PHOTOS.
Translation from English by L. A. Boris
Editor-in-chief of the publishing house T. I. Khlebnova Scientific editors F. A. Konovalov, N. N. Nepomnyashchy Editor E. F. Podvigina Art editor N. G. Drenicheva Proofreader V. V. Borisova
Signed for publication on April 24, 2006. Format 240 x 2b0. Coated glossy paper. Garamond headset. Offset printing. Circulation 3000 copies.
Publishing house ART-RODNIK, edition in Russian, 2006 125319, Moscow, st. Krasnoarmeyskaya, 25
PART ONE: PHOTO EQUIPMENT
Selecting a photographic system 10
Digital shooting 13
Useful characteristics 22
Tripods 25
Film 30
Exhibit 33
Lenses 37
Extension rings 44
Teleconverters 46
Magnification 50
Focusing rails 53
Depth of field 54
Preliminary mirror lift 56
Filters 57
Useful accessories and field equipment set 58
Flash operation 61
PART TWO: PUTTING IDEAS INTO PRACTICE
Composition and framing 72
Background 74
How to achieve quality stability 78
How to find plot 79
Learning from others 81
Travel abroad 82
Flower photography 83
Insect photography 93
Photographing fungi and lichens 103
Patterns and abstractions 113
Shooting in the garden 117
Capturing Aquatic Life 120
PART THREE: SHOOTING THE SEASONS
Spring
Summer
Autumn
Winter
PREFACE
This book is dedicated to photographing the natural world close-up - an unfamiliar world, a microcosm, striking in its beauty and diversity, most of which remains unnoticed by us. Nature, in all its diversity, has the ability to intrigue and fascinate us. Few can resist its magnificence. The plot material is endlessly varied; creative potential is limited only by your imagination and capabilities. Most of the objects depicted in this book are found everywhere. In general, I tried to avoid complex illustrative material that is beyond the capabilities of the average photographer.
Exploring the complexity of the natural world has always fascinated me. My interest in natural history began as a child, when I spent my summer holidays exploring the huge estate in which I grew up. Probably not a single living creature escaped my attention. Since then, I have been very lucky throughout my career. I made many trips in search of interesting stories.
However, this book is not about formats or the comparative merits of different brands of cameras. I will talk about field equipment, methods and photographic techniques that I myself use and consider successful. These days, photography books and magazines seem to focus more on the equipment and less on how to use it. And photographers, it seems, are more interested than ever in not so much the photography itself.
whoa, how much technical characteristics, you just have to read most photo magazines to be convinced of this. The standard of photographic equipment today is very high, and high-quality macro photographs can be obtained by working with most modern photographic systems.
As photographers, we strive to produce images that are artistically pleasing and produce good impression at the viewer. However, we should always remember to take care of the subject itself - it seems that in recent years this has sometimes been forgotten. The most talented nature photographers are also good field researchers. With knowledge of the behavior and ecology of their subjects, they understand how best to convey their characteristics, and this is the most difficult and tempting goal in nature photography. There are no secrets or one-size-fits-all techniques other than persistence and attention to detail and artistic form. Very often in photo magazines and in books I see photographs that, from a technical point of view, seem successful. But it becomes quite clear that the photographer has little knowledge of the behavior and environment of the subject, once you look at the carefully executed image.
In this book I have tried to show you what opportunities exist in the world of photography. close-up and macro photography. I have also described the equipment and methods that will be required to obtain successful shots- whether you shoot on 35mm, medium format or digital. In part one, I look at photographic equipment and special equipment that will be required to achieve good results. In Part Two, we will discuss the methods and use of photographic equipment, as well as techniques for finding and capturing popular scenes from the natural world. Part three is a gallery of photographs showing each of the seasons, so that the reader will get an idea of what kinds of subjects can be looked for and photographed in a particular season.
I don't give exposure information because I don't usually record it - after all, every situation is unique and cannot be replicated. I should also emphasize that I did not do any digital processing of the photographs other than to remove the occasional scratch or scan defect.
Finally, I hope that this book will help you discover the beauty and complexity of the hidden world of nature, teach you to appreciate its fragility and treat your subjects with care, the fate of which is literally in your hands.
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