Wi-Fi today is the most popular way Internet connection. This was made possible thanks to good characteristics this protocol, ease of connection and the availability of a wide range of inexpensive equipment.
However, this interface also has disadvantages. Many users experience strange connection interruptions, errors, or low data transfer speeds. In this case, do not rush to immediately call the support service or call a repair team. You can deal with many troubles in the operation of your home Wi-Fi network yourself.
1. Reboot your router
Yes, yes, this is exactly what they advise you to do first when contacting support. And absolutely right.
A modern router is a complex device, in operation software which errors may appear over time. The simplest and quick way to get rid of them - reboot the equipment. Some routers allow you to do this automatically according to a schedule; you just need to look for the appropriate option in the settings.
2. Install alternative firmware
Alternative firmware is written by enthusiasts to eliminate the shortcomings of proprietary software. Most famous project of this kind - DD-WRT. This firmware supports a wide range of equipment and is distributed completely free of charge.
Installing third-party firmware allows you not only to improve network performance, but also, in some cases, to activate previously unavailable device functions. However, it is worth considering that the process of flashing and subsequent configuration of the equipment will require time and special knowledge from you.
3. Use a Wi-Fi repeater
If devices in any part of the house constantly lose connection to the Internet, then the router signal there is too weak. You can solve the problem using a special repeater, which is also called repeaters, or repeaters.
The main task of the repeater is to strengthen the signal of the existing Wi-Fi network. These compact and inexpensive devices are produced by almost all popular network equipment manufacturers, as well as dozens of unknown Chinese companies.
4. Design a signal amplifier
Using a Wi-Fi repeater may not help in all cases. Sometimes, to strengthen the router signal, you have to resort to other, more artisanal methods. For example, you can design a special reflector from or for CDs.
But if you need something truly powerful, then try assembling an antenna from scrap materials to expand your “home zone” wireless internet, which we wrote about in this one.
5. Control application access to the Internet
If someone in your house is constantly watching streaming videos, playing online games, or downloading large files, this can significantly slow down the network. Particular attention should be paid to torrent clients. Some of them are configured in such a way that they automatically start when the system starts and continue downloading and distributing data in the background. A separate pain is computer games that quietly download multi-gigabyte updates and additions.
6. Block access to strangers
By default, the manufacturer sets the same well-known logins and passwords on all its routers. Each user must change them independently to protect their network from unauthorized access. However, unfortunately, not everyone does this.
If you do not want your neighbors to use your wireless network, thereby interfering with you, then you need to perform detailed configuration of the router. You can read how to do this in our guide “”.
7. Get rid of clutter
The quality of the signal transmitted over a Wi-Fi network can be affected by many different factors, including interference from phones, microwave ovens, and so on. You can get rid of them only by placing the router and the source of interference at the maximum distance. The special WiFi Analyzer application, which can display signal strength in real time, will help you cope with this task.
8. Tune to an available channel
In modern apartment buildings Many wireless access points operate simultaneously, occupying all available channels. As a result, some of them have to share the same channel, which leads to a mutual decrease in the speed and stability of communication.
9. Find a new location for your router
Poor location of the router in the apartment can also affect the quality of the connection. If your workplace There are several concrete walls separating the connection point, then you shouldn’t be surprised that the Internet is constantly slowing down.
You can only choose the optimal location for the router through experience, moving it around the apartment and measuring the signal quality. The NetSpot diagnostic utility and our instructions, called ““, will help you do this.
10. Use modern technology
One of the best ways to make your wireless network as fast, stable and secure as possible is to use modern equipment.
Communication standards are constantly evolving and improving. New implementations of this protocol provide faster connection speeds, reduce errors and susceptibility to interference.
However, to use them you need the appropriate equipment. Therefore, the most radical and expensive method of improving the quality of your home network is to purchase a modern dual-band router from a reputable manufacturer.
The range of Wi-Fi routers is increasing every day. If your eyes run wild in the store and you don’t know which model to buy, then this article is especially for you. Below I will tell you how to choose the right router for your apartment to suit your needs. And also you will find a rating of the best models of 2019.
Popular manufacturers of Wi-Fi routers
There are many popular, and not so popular, router manufacturing companies. We will not list them all here, but will highlight only the main manufacturers who consistently produce new models for our market.
It is immediately worth noting that each manufacturer produces models in different price categories. Therefore, first you need to decide on a budget, and only then choose a device.
1.TP-LINK
A popular manufacturer of computer and telecommunications equipment. They are very popular in our market due to their relatively low price, good quality assembly and materials. Personally, I recommend choosing a router from the range of this brand. As a rule, they serve for quite a long time (mine lasted more than 3 years) without breakdowns or failures.
2. ASUS
Manufacturing company computer equipment and its components. The routers of this company are different at a high price and corresponding quality. Cheap models can be counted on one hand, but they also have mostly positive customer reviews.
3.D-LINK
Popular manufacturer of network equipment. The assortment includes a large number of routers of various price categories. The company specializes exclusively in network technologies, therefore it produces only high-quality products in its segment.
4.ZyXEL
A large Taiwanese company producing network equipment. The production of routers is one of the main directions of the company. The company's equipment prices vary markedly. There are models for budget buyers, and there are models for people with an unlimited budget.
5.Huawei
A rapidly growing Chinese company that occupies one of the leading positions in its industry. Now the company is actively developing the production of network equipment. Customer reviews of the products are mostly positive.
We will not dwell long on choosing a manufacturer. In any case, there is no point in arguing which brand is better. You need to choose among specific models that suit your budget and characteristics. Compare the most best models routers can be found in the table below.
Choosing a router for your home. What you should pay attention to?
Each device is designed for specific purposes and tasks. If you are buying a router for the first time, it is important to correctly evaluate the characteristics of the device so that they match your requirements. Below we will write a specific list of characteristics that will help you choose the best router for your home or office.
Wan port type
The most important thing is the WAN port. This characteristic is indicated on all models. It depends on your Internet, so it is important not to make a mistake when choosing this option, otherwise the router simply will not suit you. There are three main types:
- Ethernet- this is a standard connection type that is available on almost all modern Wi-Fi routers. If the Internet in your home is connected via a network cable (not via a telephone), then this type of connection is suitable for you.
- ADSL modem- These are routers that connect to a telephone cable. note: if you already have a regular ADSL modem at home, then you can buy a standard router that is equipped with an Ethernet port (it can be connected via an old modem).
- 3G/4G routers- provide distribution of Wi-Fi signal from a USB modem. If you need a modem that supports this function, look in the port characteristics for the inscription: USB 3G/4G.
Wi-Fi signal speed
This is one of the most important characteristics, which you need to pay attention to first. As a rule, most cheap routers (under 1000 rubles) can provide speeds of up to 150 Mbit/s. If you expect to use Wi-Fi on 1-2 devices, then this speed will be quite enough.
I recommend paying attention to models in the price category of 1,500 rubles and above. Such devices will provide Wi-Fi speeds of >300 Mbps. You can connect several devices at the same time, and the connection will not be interrupted or freeze.
Wireless capabilities also play an important role. Depending on the price category of the models, we recommend choosing the following standards:
- 802.11n- if the router is in the price category up to 2000 rubles.
- 802.11ac- if the router is of average price or higher.
Wi-Fi frequency
Most modern routers support two signal frequencies: 2.4 GHz and 5 GHz. Due to the rapid spread of Wi-Fi in all apartments and offices, the 2.4 GHz frequency range quickly filled up, so the signal transmission speed may suffer.
The newer 5 GHz band provided owners of new routers with a free frequency, and as a result, fast Internet without interference. Therefore, if you have the funds to purchase a router with a 5 GHz Wi-Fi frequency, we recommend choosing this option.
There are also dual-band routers that support two frequencies simultaneously. But such models, as a rule, cost a little more.
Router power and range
This is also a fairly important question, especially if you have a large apartment or country house.
As a rule, the operating range of the router model is not indicated in the specifications. And this is understandable, because this characteristic is influenced by a large number external factors, which differ for each buyer (wall thickness, type of walls, congestion of the frequency range and other interference).
But how then to choose a Wi-Fi router for a large room?
- Number of antennas. As a rule, the presence of two or three antennas greatly enhances the signal and increases the range of the router. On expensive models, the presence of 3 or more antennas affects the signal transmission speed rather than the radius.
- Antenna power. We recommend choosing models that have antennas with a power of 5dBi or more.
- User reviews. Most often in the comments, users cite real examples. You can compare them with your room and choose the right model.
If you still can’t cover the whole room with one router, then it’s better to buy an additional one.
Rating of the best routers for 2019
| Category | Name | Rating (based on user reviews) | Price |
|---|---|---|---|
| The best cheap routers | 4.6 / 5 | 1 200 ₽ | |
| 4.6 / 5 | 1,050 RUR | ||
| 4.9 / 5 | 1,080 RUR | ||
| 4.6 / 5 | 1,080 RUR | ||
| The best routers at an average price | 4.5 / 5 | 1,750 RUR | |
| 4.9 / 5 | 4,650 RUR | ||
| 4.9 / 5 | RUR 3,130 | ||
| The best premium routers | 4.5 / 5 | RUB 15,590 | |
| 4.6 / 5 | 7,580 RUR | ||
| 4.9 / 5 | 6,050 ₽ |
The best routers according to user reviews
ASUS RT-N12
This router belongs to the line of “affordable” models from Asus. Designed for use in an apartment (2 or 3 rooms) or a small office. Thanks to two powerful external antennas, it provides high data transfer speeds. ASUS RT-N12 will be enough if you like to watch movies and videos in high quality, or play online games.
Setting up the router takes a few minutes. After completing all the steps in the “setup wizard”, the router will be ready to Wi-Fi distribution signal. The total signal transmission speed can reach 300 Mbit/s.
Advantages of the router according to user reviews :
- Installation and configuration is quite easy.
- Two powerful adjustable antennas that provide good signal coverage.
- Maximum speed signal transmission: 300 Mbit/s.
Flaws :
- Not found.
TP-link TL-WR841N
A reliable device for creating wired and wireless connection networks in an apartment or small office. Excellent signal transmission quality is provided by two external antennas. The data transfer speed reaches 300 Mbit/s.
The router complies with the 802.11n standard, but at the same time, is backward compatible with devices with 802.11b/g standards. The functions of parental control, virtual server and quick protection will expand the boundaries of Internet use.
Advantages of TP-link TL-WR841N :
- Strong signal. Two powerful antennas can transmit data over a distance of more than 100m.
- Quick setup using the Easy Setup Assistant program.
- Beautiful, streamlined body shape.
Disadvantages of TP-link TL-WR841N :
- Not found.
Zyxel Keenetic Start
Wireless router Zyxel Keenetic Start is a great option for creating a network in an apartment or office. With its help, you can combine all your existing devices (tablet, laptop, phone) into your home network. The maximum data transfer speed is 150 Mbit/s. This will be enough for watching movies, downloading large files and playing online games.
This router allows you to create guest networks. Therefore, you do not need to give your network login and password to your friends and acquaintances every time. Due to its compactness, the device can be located anywhere in the apartment.
Pros of the router :
- Reliable and stable router, which works for a long time without interruption.
- Convenient control, quick setup.
- Compact sizes.
Minuses :
- One external antenna, which is why the signal is not strong enough.
D-link DIR-615
A simple router that provides wireless connection speeds of up to 300 Mbps. Installation and configuration of the router is carried out in a matter of minutes, thanks to the built-in setup wizard. Software updates occur automatically from the D-Link update server.
The device allows you to create a guest network in which you can limit the speed of Wi-Fi and access to your home network. D-link DIR-615 is also equipped with a special button to turn the router on/off. Now, when leaving home, you will not need to unplug the device from the outlet.
pros :
- Wi-Fi speed up to 300 Mbps.
- Wireless capabilities 802.11n, 802.11g, 802.11b.
- Quick installation, convenient setup.
- There is an on/off button.
Minuses :
- It gets hot during prolonged use.
TP-link TL-MR3420
The router allows you to configure high speed connection Wi-Fi networks at the touch of a button. Two powerful external antennas provide a stable signal with a speed of 300 Mbps.
This router is compatible with 3G modems. Now you can connect to Wi-Fi in places where 3G/3.75G networks are available.
:
- You can connect a USB modem.
- Large range due to powerful antennas (more than 100 meters).
- Quick installation and connection.
- Doesn't cut speed.
- Good quality.
Flaws :
- Not found.
MikroTik RB951G-2HnD
Powerful wireless router with built-in antenna. The maximum data transfer rate is 300 Mbit/s. If the Wi-Fi signal is direct, then the speed of the RB951G-2HnD practically does not slow down. The device is equipped with 5 Ethernet and 1 USB port.
MikroTik RB951G-2HnD allows the user to connect several providers at the same time, limit Internet access by IP address, organize an access point, and much more. Setup and installation are very simple; you can configure it via the web interface or the Winbox program.
Advantages according to user reviews :
- The built-in antenna has a large range.
- There is practically no reduction in speed.
- Quick setup via the Web interface or using the program.
- Wi-Fi signal speed up to 300 Mbps
- High build quality.
Flaws .
Now many people are buying 802.11n access points, but good speeds Not everyone can achieve it. In this post we’ll talk about not-so-obvious small nuances that can significantly improve (or worsen) Wi-Fi performance. Everything described below applies to both home Wi-Fi routers with standard and advanced (DD-WRT & Co.) firmware, and to corporate hardware and networks. Therefore, as an example, let’s take the “home” theme, as it is more native and closer to the body. Because even the most administrative of admins and the most technical of engineers live in apartment buildings (or villages with a sufficient density of neighbors), and everyone wants fast and reliable Wi-Fi.
[!!]:
After the comments regarding the publication of the first part, I present the text in its entirety. If you read the first part, continue.
A few notes before we begin:
- The style of presentation is deliberately simplified, because Some things you may have to explain to neighbors who are completely unfamiliar with the basics of radio networks, the 802.11 standard, and government regulatory policies.
- Everything described below is a recommendation. They may not apply to your situation. There are exceptions to every rule, which are omitted for brevity. Limiting cases can be discussed in the comments.
- Please note the word "non-obvious". Detailed proof of some theses requires immersion in standards, I don’t want to do this (although I had to a couple of times).
1. How to live well yourself and not disturb your neighbors.
It would seem - what is there? Unscrewed the point on full power, got the maximum possible coverage - and rejoice. Now let's think: not only the access point signal must reach the client, but the client signal must also reach the point. The TD transmitter power is usually up to 100 mW (20 dBm). Now look at the datasheet for your laptop/phone/tablet and find the power of its Wi-Fi transmitter there. Found it? You are very lucky! Often it is not indicated at all (you can search by FCC ID). However, it is safe to say that the power of typical mobile clients is in the 30-50 mW range. Thus, if the AP broadcasts at 100 mW, and the client broadcasts only at 50 mW, there will be places in the coverage area where the client will hear the point well, but the client’s AP will hear poorly (or will not hear at all) - asymmetry. This is true even taking into account the fact that the point usually has better reception sensitivity - look under the spoiler. Again, this is not about range, but about symmetry. There is a signal, but there is no connection. Or downlink is fast and uplink is slow. This is true if you use Wi-Fi for online games or Skype; for regular Internet access this is not so important (only if you are not at the edge of the coverage). And we will complain about a wretched provider, a buggy point, crooked drivers, but not about illiterate network planning.Rationale (for those interested in details):
Our task is to ensure that the communication channel between the client (STA) and the point (AP) is as symmetrical as possible in order to equalize the speeds of uplink and downlink. To do this, we will rely on SNR (signal-to-noise ratio). Why specifically to him is described in.
SNR(STA) = Rx(AP) - RxSens(STA); SNR (AP) - Rx(STA) - RxSens(AP)
where Rx(AP/STA) is the power of the received signal from the point/client, RxSens(AP/STA) is the reception sensitivity of the point/client. For simplicity, we assume that the background noise threshold is below the sensitivity threshold of the AP/STA receiver. Such a simplification is quite acceptable, because if the background noise level for AP and STA is the same, it does not affect the channel symmetry in any way.
Further,
Rx(AP) = Tx(AP)[point transmitter power at antenna port] + TxGain(AP)[transmission gain of a point antenna taking into account all losses, gains and directivity] -PathLoss[signal loss on the way from point to client] + RxGain(STA)[reception gain of the client's antenna, taking into account all losses, gains and directivity].
Likewise, Rx(STA) = Tx(STA) + TxGain(STA) - PathLoss + RxGain(AP).
It is worth noting the following:
- PathLoss is the same in both directions
- TxGain and RxGain of antennas are the same in the case of conventional antennas (true for both AP and STA). Cases with MIMO, MRC, TxBF and other tricks are not considered here. So you can accept: TxGain(AP) === RxGain(AP) = Gain(AP), similar for STA.
- Rx/Tx Gain of the client antenna is rarely known. Client devices are usually equipped with non-replaceable antennas, which allows you to specify the transmitter power and receiver sensitivity immediately taking into account the antenna. We will note this in our calculations below.
SNR(AP) = Tx*(STA) [including antenna] - PathLoss + Gain(AP) - RxSens(AP)
SNR(STA)=Tx(AP) + Gain(AP) - PathLoss -RxSens*(STA) [including antenna]
The difference between the SNR at both ends will be the channel asymmetry, we apply arithmetic: D = SNR(STA)-SNR(AP) = Tx*(STA) - Tx(AP) - (RxSens*(STA) - (RxSens(AP)).
Thus, the channel asymmetry does not depend on the type of antenna at the point and at the client (again, it depends if you use MIMO, MRC, etc., but it will be quite difficult to calculate anything here), but depends on the difference in power and sensitivity of the receivers. At D<0 точка будет слышать клиента лучше, чем клиент точку. В зависимости от расстояния это будет означать либо, что поток данных от клиента к точке будет медленнее, чем от точки к клиенту, либо клиент до точки достучаться не сможет вовсе.
For the power of the point (100mW=20dBm) and the client (30-50mW ~= 15-17dBm) we took, the power difference will be 3-5dB. As long as the point's receiver is more sensitive than the client's receiver by this same 3-5dB, problems will not arise. Unfortunately, this is not always the case. Let's carry out calculations for an HP 8440p laptop and a D-Link point DIR-615 for 802.11g@54Mbps (about why it is also important to indicate rate/MCS - in the next section):
- 8440p : Tx*(STA) = 17dBm, RxSens*(STA) = -76dBm@54Mbps
- DIR-615: Tx(AP) = 20dBm, RxSens(AP) = -65dBm@54Mbps.
- D = (17 - 20) - (-76 +65) = 3 - 11 = -7dB.
Conclusion: it may turn out that in order to obtain a more stable connection, the power of the point will have to be reduced. Which, you see, is not entirely obvious :)
Also, a far from well-known fact that adds to the asymmetry is that most client devices have reduced transmitter power on the “extreme” channels (1 and 11/13 for 2.4 GHz). Here's an iPhone example from the FCC documentation (power at the antenna port). 
As you can see, on the extreme channels the transmitter power is ~2.3 times lower than on the middle ones. The reason is that Wi-Fi is a broadband connection; it will not be possible to keep the signal clearly within the channel frame. So you have to reduce the power in “borderline” cases so as not to affect the bands adjacent to the ISM. Conclusion: if your tablet does not work well in the toilet, try moving to channel 6.
2. Speaking of channels...
Everyone knows the “non-overlapping” channels 1/6/11. So, they intersect! Because Wi-Fi, as mentioned earlier, is a broadband technology and it is impossible to completely contain the signal within the channel. The illustrations below demonstrate the effect for 802.11n OFDM (HT). The first illustration shows the 802.11n OFDM (HT) spectrum mask for a 20 MHz channel at 2.4 GHz (taken directly from the standard). Vertical - power, horizontal - frequency (offset from the center frequency of the channel). In the second illustration, I applied spectral masks of channels 1,6,11 taking into account the neighborhood. From these illustrations we draw two important conclusions.
Everyone thinks that the channel width is 22 MHz (it is). But, as the illustration shows, the signal does not end there, and even non-overlapping channels still overlap: 1/6 and 6/11 - by ~-20dBr, 1/11 - by ~-36dBr, 1/13 - by -45dBr.
An attempt to place two access points configured on adjacent “non-overlapping” channels close to each other will result in each of them creating interference of 20dBm – 20dB – 50dB [which will be added to the loss of signal propagation over a short distance and a small wall] =-50dBm! This level of noise can completely clog any useful Wi-Fi signal from the next room, or block your communications entirely!
Why
802.11 uses the CSMA/CA medium access method (usually the EDCA/HCF method, for those interested, read about 802.11e). To determine channel occupancy, the CCA (Clear Channel Assessment) mechanism is used. Here is an excerpt from the standard:
The receiver shall hold the CCA signal busy for any signal 20 dB or more above the minimum modulation and coding rate sensitivity (–82 + 20 = –62 dBm) in the 20 MHz channel.
Accordingly, a station (point or client) considers the air to be busy if it hears a signal of -62dBm or higher, regardless of whether the transmission was on the same channel, on a neighboring one, or whether the microwave is even working. In the case of the client it is still not so bad, but if you have interference of >=-62dBm in the area of the point, the entire cell will suffer. For the same reason, all serious vendors simply do not release dual-radio APs in which both modules can work in 2.4 simultaneously: it is easier to ban than to explain every time that it is not “VendorX is crap,” but “learn the hardware.”
Conclusion: If you put a point next to a wall, and your neighbor is on the other side of the wall, his point on the adjacent "non-overlapping" channel can still cause you serious problems.
Try to calculate the interference values for channels 1/11 and 1/13 and draw your own conclusions.
Similarly, some are trying to “compact” the coverage by installing two points tuned to different channels on top of each other in a stack - I think there is no need to explain what will happen (the exception here would be proper shielding and proper antenna spacing - everything is possible if you know how).
The second interesting aspect is the attempts of slightly more advanced users to “escape” between the standard 1/6/11 channels. Again, the logic is simple: “I get less interference between channels.” In fact, usually more interference is caught, not less. Previously, you suffered to the fullest from only one neighbor (on the same channel as you). But this was not interference from the first OSI level (interference), but from the second - collision - because your point shared a collision domain with its neighbor and coexisted in a civilized manner at the MAC level. Now you are catching interference (Layer1) from two neighbors on both sides. As a result, delay and jitter may have tried to decrease a little (since there seem to be no collisions now), but the signal-to-noise ratio also decreased. And with it, the speeds decreased (since each speed requires a certain minimum SNR - more on this in) and the percentage of usable frames (since the SNR margin decreased, the sensitivity to random bursts of interference increased). As a result, the retransmit rate, delay, jitter usually increases and decreases.
throughput
In addition, if there is significant overlap of channels, it is still possible to correctly receive a frame from an adjacent channel (if the signal-to-noise ratio allows) and still get a collision. And with interference above -62dBm, the above-mentioned CCA mechanism simply will not allow you to use the channel. This only makes the situation worse and negatively affects throughput.
For approximately the same reasons, you should not place an access point near a window, unless you plan to use/distribute Wi-Fi in the yard. There is no benefit to you personally from the fact that your point will shine into the distance - but you will collect collisions and noise from all neighbors in direct visibility. And you yourself will add to the clutter of the airwaves. Especially in apartment buildings built in zigzags, where neighbors' windows look at each other from a distance of 20-30m. For neighbors with spots on their windowsills, bring lead paint to your windows... :)
Also, for 802.11n the issue of 40MHz channels is relevant. My recommendation is to turn on 40MHz in “auto” mode at 5GHz, and not turn it on (“20MHz only”) at 2.4GHz (the exception is the complete absence of neighbors). The reason is that in the presence of 20MHz neighbors, you will most likely receive interference on one of the halves of the 40MHz channel + the 40/20MHz compatibility mode will turn on. Of course, you can hardcode it to 40MHz (if all your clients support it), but the interference will still remain. As for me, stable 75Mbps per stream is better than unstable 150. Again, exceptions are possible - the logic from . You can read the details (read first).
3. Since we're talking about speeds...
Several times we have already mentioned speeds (rate/MCS - not throughput) in conjunction with SNR. Below is a table of the required SNRs for rates/MCS, compiled by me based on the standard materials. Actually, that is why for more high speeds The receiver sensitivity is less, as we noticed in .
In 802.11n/MIMO networks, thanks to MRC and other multi-antenna tricks, the desired SNR can be obtained even with a lower input signal. Typically, this is reflected in the sensitivity values in the datasheets.
From here, by the way, one more conclusion can be drawn: The effective size (and shape) of the coverage area depends on the selected speed (rate/MCS). This is important to consider in your expectations and when planning your network.
This point may not be feasible for owners of access points with very simple firmware that do not allow setting Basic and Supported Rates. As mentioned above, the speed (rate) depends on the signal-to-noise ratio. If, say, 54Mbps requires an SNR of 25dB, and 2Mbps requires 6dB, then it is clear that frames sent at a speed of 2Mbps will “fly” further, i.e. they can be decoded from a greater distance than faster frames. This is where we come to Basic Rates: all service frames, as well as broadcasts (if the point does not support BCast/MCast acceleration and its varieties), are sent at the lowest Basic Rate. This means that your network will be visible from many blocks away. Here's an example (thanks to Motorola AirDefense). 
Again, this adds to the collision picture considered: both for the situation with neighbors on the same channel, and for the situation with neighbors on close overlapping channels. In addition, ACK frames (which are sent in response to any unicast packet) also run at the minimum Basic Rate (if the point does not support their acceleration)
A little more math
Let's assume your point is running 802.11 with all MCS. She sends you a frame to MCS7 (65.5 Mbps) and you respond with an ACK to MCS0 (6.5 Mbps). By removing support for, say, MCS0-3, you will be sending ACKs to MCS4 (39Mbps) - 6 times faster than MCS0. With this simple trick we have just reduced the guaranteed network latency, which is nice if you want low pings in games and smooth voice/video conferencing.
Conclusion: turn off low speeds - both your network and your neighbors' network will work faster. For you - due to the fact that all service traffic will suddenly begin to move faster, for your neighbors - due to the fact that you now do not create collisions for them (though you still create interference for them - the signal has not gone anywhere - but usually enough low). If you convince your neighbors to do the same, your network will work even faster.
It is clear that when low speeds are disabled, it will also be possible to connect to only in the area of a stronger signal (SNR requirements have become higher), which leads to a decrease in effective coverage. The same is the case with reducing power. But here it’s up to you to decide what you need: maximum coverage or fast and stable communication. Using the plate and datasheets of the point manufacturer and customers, you can almost always achieve an acceptable balance.
Another interesting issue is compatibility modes (so-called “Protection Modes”). Currently there is compatibility mode b-g (ERP Protection) and a/g-n (HT Protection). In any case, the speed drops. A lot of factors influence how much it drops (there’s enough material for two more articles), I usually just say that the speed drops by about a third. At the same time, if you have an 802.11n point and an 802.11n client, but your neighbor has a g point behind the wall, and his traffic reaches you, your point will also fall into compatibility mode, because this is required by the standard. It’s especially nice if your neighbor is a DIYer and is sculpting something based on an 802.11b transmitter. :) What to do? The same as with going to non-standard channels, evaluate what is more important for you: collisions (L2) or interference (L1). If the signal level from a neighbor is relatively low, switch the points to pure 802.11n (Greenfield) mode: The maximum throughput may decrease (the SNR will decrease), but the traffic will flow more smoothly due to the elimination of redundant collisions, bursts of guard frames, and modulation switching. Otherwise, it’s better to be patient and talk to your neighbor about the power/relocation of the AP. Well, or put a reflector... Yes, and don’t put a point on the window! :)
Another option is to move to 5 GHz, where the air is cleaner: there are more channels, less noise, the signal weakens faster, and simply the points are more expensive, which means there are fewer of them. Many people buy a dual radio point, configure 802.11n Greenfield at 5 GHz and 802.11g/n at 2.4 GHz for guests and all sorts of gadgets that don’t need speed anyway. And it’s safer this way: most script kiddies don’t have money for expensive toys with 5 GHz support.
For 5 GHz, remember that only 4 channels work reliably: 36/40/44/48(for Europe, for the USA there are 5 more). On the rest, the radar coexistence mode (DFS) is enabled. As a result, the connection may periodically disappear.
4. Since we're talking about safety...
Let us mention some interesting aspects here too.What should the PSK length be? Here is an excerpt from the text of the 802.11-2012 standard, section M4.1:
Keys derived from the pass phrase provide relatively low levels of security, especially with keys generated form short passwords, since they are subject to dictionary attack. Use of the key hash is recommended only where it is impractical to make use of a stronger form of user authentication. A key generated from a passphrase of less than about 20 characters is unlikely to deter attacks.
Conclusion: well, who has a password for their home point that consists of 20+ characters? :)
Why doesn't my 802.11n point "accelerate" above a/g speeds? And what does this have to do with security?
The 802.11n standard only supports two encryption modes: CCMP and None. Wi-Fi 802.11n Compatible certification requires that when TKIP is enabled on the radio, the point will no longer support all new 802.11n speed modes, leaving only 802.11a/b/g speeds. In some cases, you may see associations at higher rates, but the throughput will still be low. Conclusion: forget about TKIP - it will still be banned from 2014(Wi-Fi Alliance plans).
Should you hide your (E)SSID? (this is already a more well-known topic)
hid
First, you should understand that hiding your ESSID does not make your point disappear from the airwaves. She diligently sends beacons in the same way, just without indicating the ESSID in them. And this ESSID will no longer be hidden as soon as a client tries to connect to the point (which must correctly specify the ESSID for a successful connection). At this moment, the binding of ESSID to BSSID is caught - and the game of hide and seek ends. The process can be speeded up by shooting the existing client with a disassociation frame. So there is no benefit from this concealment. Conclusion: the effectiveness of hiding the SSID is approximately equal to the effectiveness of hiding text under a spoiler.
Nevertheless, it’s worth hiding - there’s no harm from it either. But there are two important exceptions: devices with crooked drivers (Apple iOS, for example, has a number of funny jambs related to saved profiles of hidden networks) that cannot reliably connect to hidden ESSIDs. Also, computers running Windows XP with WZC - these are constantly looking for adventures configured on the client network with hidden SSIDs, which not only gives away their names, but also invites evil twin attacks.
5. All sorts of things.
A little about MIMO. For some reason, to this day I come across formulations like 2x2 MIMO or 3x3 MIMO. Unfortunately, for 802.11n this formulation is of little use, because It is important to know the number of spatial streams (Spatial Streams). A 2x2 MIMO point can only support one SS, and will not go above 150Mbps. A point with 3x3 MIMO can support 2SS, limited to only 300Mbps. Complete formula MIMO looks like this: TX x RX: SS. It is clear that the number of SS cannot be greater than min (TX, RX). So the above points will be written as 2x2:1 and 3x3:2. Many wireless clients implement 1x2:1 MIMO (smartphones, tablets, cheap laptops) or 2x3:2 MIMO. So it's useless to expect 450Mbps speeds from a 3x3:3 access point when running a 1x2:1 client. Nevertheless, It's still worth buying a 2x3:2 point, because large quantity receiving antennas adds sensitivity point (MRC Gain). How more difference between the number of receiving antennas of the point and the number of transmitting antennas of the client - the greater the gain (if on the fingers). However, multipath comes into play.
As you know, multipath for 802.11a/b/g networks is evil. An access point placed in a corner with its antenna may not work the best, but one moved out of this corner by 20-30cm can show significantly better results. Likewise for clients, rooms with a complex layout, a lot of metal objects, etc.
For MIMO networks with MRC and especially for multi-SS operation (and hence high speeds) multipath – necessary condition. Because if it does not exist, it will not be possible to create several spatial flows. It’s difficult to predict anything without special planning tools, and it’s not easy to use them either. Here is an example of calculations from Motorola LANPlanner, but only radio reconnaissance and testing can give a definite answer. 
Creating a favorable multipath environment for the work of three SS is more difficult than for the work of two SS. That's why the newfangled 3x3:3 dots work with maximum performance usually only within a small radius, and even then not always. Here is an eloquent example from HP (if you dig deeper into the announcement materials of their first 3x3:3 point - MSM460)
Well, a few interesting facts for a collection:
- The human body attenuates the signal by 3-5dB (2.4/5GHz). Simply by turning to face the point you can get higher speed.
- Some dipole antennas have an asymmetrical H-plane (“side view”) radiation pattern and work better inverted
- Up to four MAC addresses can be used simultaneously in an 802.11 frame, and in 802.11s ( new standard on mesh) - up to six!
Total
802.11 technology (and radio networks in general) has many non-obvious features. Personally, I have enormous respect and admiration for the fact that people have honed such a complex technology to the “plug and play” level. We have looked (to varying degrees) at different aspects of the physical and link layers of 802.11 networks:- Asymmetry of capacities
- Restrictions on transmit power in edge channels
- The intersection of “non-overlapping” channels and consequences
- Work on “non-standard” channels (other than 1/6/11/13)
- Operation of the Clear Channel Assessment mechanism and channel blocking
- Dependence of speed (rate/MCS) on SNR and, as a consequence, dependence of receiver sensitivity and coverage area on the required speed
- Features of service traffic forwarding
- Consequences of enabling low speed support
- Impact of enabling compatibility mode support
- Channel selection in 5GHz
- Some fun aspects of security, MIMO, etc.
No matter what I tried, I couldn’t force it WiFi on MikroTik RB951Ui-2HnD work stably. The problem is that after 10-12 minutes the traffic stops flowing. At all. When you try to disconnect/connect again, the SSID disappears from the air. If it disconnects/connects several times, then WiFi starts working stably again after 10 minutes, etc.
Everything else works stably, without hiccups or glitches, and only WiFi prevents me from living.
If to MikroTik connect any router or access point with a cable (I connected D-Link DIR-615 Rev. K1, Sagemcom v2407, Tp-Link TL-WR740n, ASUS RT-N12), and connect to it, then no problems arise, WiFi works for hours. Having tried a lot, I got it to work more or less stably WiFi on a laptop, but here's a phone on Android still turns off after 1-12 minutes (at work, in a cafe, or anywhere else, all my devices work with WiFi stable).
Of course, I would use all of the above routers, but I need an IPsec tunnel to my work computer and other features MikroTik.
At first I thought that the problem was in the noisy air (there were more than 50 routers of all stripes around me), but no, at the new address the air was clear, there were only three routers nearby, but the problem was the same.
Any ideas on what I'm doing wrong.
This is the config on mine now MikroTik-ke:
# mar/25/2016 14:54:50 by RouterOS 6.34.3 # software id = KNDM-RWIV # /interface ethernet set [ find default-name=ether1 ] name=ether1-gateway set [ find default-name=ether2 ] name=ether2-master-local set [ find default-name=ether3 ] master-port=ether2-master-local name=ether3-slave-local set [ find default-name=ether4 ] name=ether4-slave-iptv-STB set [ find default-name=ether5 ] master-port=ether2-master-local name=ether5-slave-local-PoE /interface bridge add name=bridge-iptv protocol-mode=none add name=loopback0 /ip neighbor discovery set ether1-gateway discover=no set ether2-master-local discover=no set ether3-slave-local discover=no set ether4-slave-iptv-STB discover=no set ether5-slave-local-PoE discover=no set bridge-iptv discover=no /interface wireless security-profiles set [ find default=yes ] authentication-types=wpa2-psk eap-methods="" group-key-update=1h mode=dynamic-keys wpa-pre-shared-key=" werystrongkey" \ wpa2-pre-shared-key="werystrongkey" add authentication-types=wpa2-psk eap-methods="" group-key-update=1h mode=dynamic-keys name=Home-Wi-Fi supplicant-identity ="" wpa2-pre-shared-key=\ "werystrongkey" /interface wireless set [ find default-name=wlan1 ] band=2ghz-onlyn bridge-mode=disabled channel-width=20/40mhz-Ce country=russia2 disabled =no disconnect-timeout=15s \ frequency-mode=regulatory-domain mode=ap-bridge multicast-buffering=disabled multicast-helper=disabled preamble-mode=short security-profile=\ Home-Wi-Fi ssid=Peresmeshnik update- stats-interval=5h wireless-protocol=802.11 wmm-support=enabled /ip neighbor discovery set wlan1 discover=no /interface bridge port add interface=ether2-master-local add interface=wlan1 add bridge=bridge-iptv interface=ether1- gateway add bridge=bridge-iptv interface=ether4-slave-iptv-STB /system clock set time-zone-name=Europe/Moscow /system leds set 5 interface=wlan1 /system logging add topics=wireless,debug /system ntp client set enabled=yes primary-ntp=pool.ntp.org secondary-ntp=91.207.136.55
PS
The question calls for @sizaik
The question calls for
In view of the appearance, in Lately, inexpensive and stable in operation Wi-Fi routers, Internet users in apartment buildings began to acquire similar devices en masse. However, in the Wi-Fi coverage area in apartment buildings there may be Wi-Fi routers whose number exceeds the number of allowed channels, as a result of which one or more routers will be jammed by neighbors. The more powerful and expensive the routers and access points installed by neighbors, the more the situation with stable Internet access via Wi-Fi worsens. This may manifest itself in the following ways:
- Constantly writes obtaining an IP address, but the signal indicator has more than two “sticks”
- Periodically The Wi-Fi connection disappears and appears, but the signal indicator has more than two “sticks”
Second and third symptoms 99% of cases arise precisely because of the noisy frequencies used for Wi-Fi, and these can be either neighboring Wi-Fi devices, microwave ovens, PCs, as well as wireless mice, keyboards, WEB cameras, etc.
Over time, such problems will become more common. How to avoid such a situation? There are several ways to solve the problem.
- Selection WiFi channel manually - Independent selection of a free Wi-Fi channel.
- Buying a 5 GHz router means buying one that supports the not yet noisy 5 GHz band.
- Purchase of removable antennas with high gain (if the router has the ability to change antennas).
- Changing the location of the router in the apartment.
- Antenna extensions.
- Installing a repeater or access point
- Purchase or construction of a directional antenna from scrap materials
- Replacing the Wi-Fi adapter with a more powerful one
- Buying a more powerful router (read expensive)
1.Selecting a WiFi channel manually
Channel selection can be done either at random or using special programs to identify the free or least noisy channels in your room.
When several Wi-Fi routers occupy the same channel. Radio signal interference occurs wireless networks, which is the main cause of problems with Wi-Fi hotspots and routers. Due to interference, not only the speed of data exchange and the speed of the Internet connection drops significantly, but sometimes there is no connection at all.
Programs such as "inSSIDer", the Android utility "WiFi Analyzer" and many others will help you find the frequency with the lowest signal level. Then you just need to set a free frequency on the router/access point for broadcasting on it.
2.Purchase of a 5 GHz router
Buying a router that supports ac-standard Wi-Fi, i.e. operating on a 5 GHz carrier may not always be a panacea. The standard is relatively new and end device manufacturers are in no particular hurry to implement it. various reasons. This means that if you are not ready to additionally purchase USB Wi-Fi adapters for each computer that does not support this standard. Even purchasing such a router will not help you. Although this technology is the future of Wi-Fi.
3.Purchase of removable antennas with high gain
Purchased removable antennas with high gain can be much longer than those that came with the kit and often reach several tens of centimeters. Also, the radiation pattern, taking into account obstacles and interference, changes in a way that is unpredictable for the user. Plus, a set of two “inexpensive” antennas can cost more than the cost of the router itself.
4.Changing the location of the router in the apartment (the directional pattern changes)
The choice of location in the apartment can be done based on general rules to accommodate non-directional Wi-Fi access points.
The access point must be located in the central part of the room, and not placed on the floor, close to the wall, or close to massive metal objects. Walls and ceilings significantly weaken the signal, so it is advisable to place the router/access point in direct line of sight from the connected devices.
5.Antenna extensions
If it is not possible to move the router to a more favorable place, then in the case of removable antennas, it is possible to move the antenna to Right place using a coaxial cable (waveguide). A convenient option seems to be the presence of two “twistable” antennas, which will allow the signal to be distributed at two points at once.
6.Installing a repeater or access point
In conditions of increased interference, the coverage area of your Wi-Fi router may be significantly reduced, and the signal will become unstable and weak. A repeater or access point is used if communication problems occur only at a certain distance from the router. They actually expand its coverage area. The difference between a repeater and an access point is that the access point connects to the router via a LAN port with a cable, and actually distributes its network, while the repeater connects to the router via Wi-Fi and expands its network due to its coverage area. Many routers can be configured as repeaters, and that's it Wi-Fi routers can be configured as access points, and all modern “home” access points can be made into repeaters.
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| Expanding the coverage area of a Wi-Fi repeater |
7.Purchase or construction of a directional antenna from scrap materials
At first glance, the simplest homemade modification to a router antenna is to add a parabolic reflector, usually made of foil or tin, but this method requires an accurate calculation of the distance between the reflector and the antenna. The second option is to build a directional antenna, but it only works to the side receiving device, changing the radiation pattern in the direction of weakening the signal in all other directions.
8. Replacing the Wi-Fi adapter with a more powerful one
Replacing the Wi-Fi adapter, read buying a more powerful one. Usually, purchasing a higher-quality USB Wi-Fi adapter will significantly increase the stability of your Internet connection.9.Purchasing a more powerful router
Buying a more powerful router. A large assortment Wi-Fi routers can confuse even a person well-versed in the operation of wireless equipment. Implementers are trying to merge stale models, however, the danger may lie, rather, in insufficient functionality and excessive sensitivity to voltage changes, which can be expressed in periodic resetting of settings, than in the strength of the Wi-Fi signal. How to choose a router:- Buy a router only from well-known companies;
- Pay attention to the antenna gain and their number;
- It is advisable to purchase with removable antennas for possible subsequent replacement;
- The difference in the coverage area of a two-antenna router and a single-antenna router is significantly greater than the difference between a two- and three-antenna router;
- If you are offered seemingly identical routers from the same company, take the more expensive one.
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